The Places I Love

Mako 22.03.10
“Along Puglia's glittering coast there are dozens of gorgeous beaches for wild swimming with crystal clear waters and hot rocks on which to bask after a dip. The rugged beauty of the region is also a major draw for the Italian gay population. Most of the action happens at a secret beach, Makó, just outside Gallipoli. After a short drive out of town along the coastal road look out for a sign for Picador which leads to Makó. Trek through a shaded pine wood and you'll stumble upon an idyllic seaside spot with a central decked bar split over different levels and a jetty running down to the sea.

It's a bit of a scramble to reach the warm turquoise sea where handsome sun-kissed men bobbed about in brightly coloured Speedos. Heaven.”

Broadway Market 19.03.10
“There's also a great Arge restaurant here, Sant Maria de Buen Ayre (or something like that) and in summer you have London Fields at the top of the market or the canal at the bottom for a stroll. It's lovely to think that peace actually exists in Hackney.”

Huvafen Fushi 18.03.10
“High on glamour, but in an effortless, natural sort of way, ‘Huvafen’ is the local word for ‘dream’ and is the Primrose Hill of the Maldives. The other resorts can feel a little Disney World meets Jurassic Park with their zipped up golf carts and man-made ‘jungle’ landscaping. Here the proportions are positively Lillipution, with everything within walkable distance giving Huvafen a lived in and intimate vibe that the other resorts can lack. And it oozes a rock ‘n’ roll atmosphere: guests can kick back on bean bags by the infinity pool lit by fiber optics or shake their thang at occasional parties held by superstar DJ Ravin (Buddha Bar). The posh shop stocks hot label Orlebar Brown – the only swim stuff for boys and girls to be seen in. But best of all are the open air bathrooms where you can wallow in your bath or shower naked (mooning) under the moonshine in the complete privacy of your own little tropical garden with plunge pool. Bliss. Hotels don’t get better than this.”

Claridge's 18.03.10
“When in London, the handsome fashion designer/film director Tom Ford can always be found in the former smoking bar at Claridge’s (now the Lalique bar). And why would he go anywhere else? This is without doubt the most deeply chic and sophisticated spot to sleep, eat or drink in London, and it’s been that way for decades. During the Second World War exiled royalty from all over Europe fled their chateaux and took refuge in the Art Deco splendour of Claridge’s – and what a haven to have to hunker down in. True luxury today is defined by one-offs and there is no other hotel like Claridge’s. A celebration of 1930’s glamour, the calibre of guests that have passed through the hotel’s doors over the years is staggering. Dame Barbara Cartland ‘s secretary would confirm whether Barb would be wearing pink or turquoise so that her table could be laid in the same colour scheme. Pictures of Jackie O, Princess Margaret and all the major glamour pusses over the years adorn the walls. It’s like a bit of their star quality rubs off on you when you enter this bastion of fabulousness. After a day’s shopping be sure to take tea in the glittering Art Deco jewel of the Foyer with its magnificent high ceiling. For a more intimate tete a tete retreat into the Reading Room with its two Deco cut marble fireplaces, rich leather columns and suede walls (the corner banquette is the top spot to hold court and survey the scene). In an age when we are bombarded with hideous images of reality tv ‘stars’ no-knickering it for the paps there is something reassuringly discreet about the A-listers who enjoy the strict no camera policy inside the hotel. Which is probably why royals, heads of state and major movie stars all call this home. Once you’ve swished through those famous revolving doors at Claridge’s and entered this magical, sparkly wonderland, nothing else compares.”

The Connaught 18.03.10
“Like the starry Scott’s restaurant just around the corner on Mount Street, the Connaught had a major refurb, costing a mere £70 million, making this legendary Mayfair hotel built in 1897 hip once again. The new-found wow factor to this neighbourhood has doubtless been helped by Marc Jacobs and Balenciaga choosing to open their London flagship stores here. But it’s the Connaught that has really made this pretty little spot a hot destination. The suites and rooms have been refurbished by leading interior designer Guy Oliver, who has ensured that the original features were not only preserved but enhanced, resulting in an opulent feel without losing the sense that you are staying in the guest bedroom of a very posh friend with lots of family heirlooms dotted about the place while majoring on all the mod cons you could need. A refreshed palette of period colours, such as peppermint green with silver leaf and Edwardian-slate, adorn the walls, while gilt mirrors and period oil paintings have been restored resulting in a discreet English feel. The solid nickel taps in the gleaming white bathrooms are a gentle nod to the Deco period, while the flat-screen televisions above the large enamelled, cast iron baths ticks all the boxes for today’s demanding travellers.

The restaurant, ‘Hélène Darroze at The Connaught’, does a lovely brunch while the Coburg Bar is chic with modern decorative touches – four black and white cameos by Julian Opie sitting either side of the fireplace work brilliantly. There’s another bar, designed by David Collins, which is even more beautiful and Aman recently opened a fabulous spa here. So if you want to live in the lap of luxury, this is your place.”

Fox & Anchor 18.03.10
“Smithfield is a unique little pocket of London which has managed to keep it real, attracting a brilliant, bonkers and bohemian crowd of in the know locals. The Fox & Anchor is right next to Smithfield meat market with a licence to serve thirsty traders from 6am (which makes for quite a unique mix of people when you are having your breakfast I can tell you). Co-owner Robert Cook is CEO of the Malmaison hotel group (there is a Malmaison hotel a few doors away on Charterhouse Square where you check in).

The idea of a ‘pub with rooms’ is a genius one. Especially a pub that is true to its old boozer credentials – lots of mahogany, etched glass and heavy brass. There are just 6 rooms which is about as boutique as you can get. What a treat to be able to be thrown right into the hubbub of a busy pub with oodles of character then creep upstairs at closing time to the luxury of your gorgeous bedroom.

We stayed in the St Bart’s room with three tall leaded windows, a velvet sofa at the foot of the bed, and a giant architectural photograph of St Bart's church printed on fabric over the bed. I loved the fact that I could open my window and, Rapunzel-like, wait there for my gallant knight’s arrival to greet him and throw down the key (to my heart?). Clearly I have rescue issues. Miller Harris toiletries were in abundance and I loved the trough-shaped basin of polished copper and the wooden bath bridge with its own shaving mirror. I had a peek at the other rooms – Smithfield has a very rock and roll bath at the bottom of the bed (great for exhibitionists); The Market suite has a cute little garden terrace. But they’re all great.

We ate in one of the cosy snugs in the Fox's Den. If there is a more intimate and date-friendly room in London then I can’t think of it. My new chap and I loved being able to feel like we were in our own little private world, occasionally being reminded that there were other guests by the fascinating conversations you could overhear, only to drift back again into the intensity of our new relationship bubble. We started with real ale from pewter tankards (how butch), then moved onto a fruity Argentinean red. The menu majors on hearty, meaty options like chops and steak and oyster pies. It all felt quite Sweeney Todd but not in a silly themed way. Rather you felt like you had stumbled upon a place that has been around forever yet manages to cater perfectly to contemporary needs and wants.”

Parker 18.03.10
“Pulling up in my companion’s svelte vintage coupe Mercedes to the entrance of the retro fabulous Parker hotel in Palm Springs has to be one of the most glamorous entries to one of the most glamorous hotels I have ever had the pleasure of staying at. The staff are dressed in powerful pink, referencing the blasts of blossoming bougainvillea that frame the façade. Humming birds flutter and suck the nectar from the flowers, while the palm trees above form a canopy of shade from the bronzing desert sun. This garden oasis is truly a paradise.

Palm Springs, 2 hours by car from LA, was a hideaway for the Hollywood set back in the 50’s, drawn here by its aura of seediness and decadence. Movie stars like Frank Sinatra, Doris Day and Lucille Ball as well as the closeted Rock Hudson and Liberace all came to do everything they couldn’t do back in Los Angeles. Like Key West in Florida, Palm Springs is both gods waiting room for the grey gays and a hedonistic watering hole for buff LA young bucks. I arrived (coincidentally I might add) for the White Party weekend (which takes place every Easter or ‘Spring Break’ as they call it). Talk about a baptism of fire. I have never seen so many beefy blokes battling it out for supremacy. It certainly inspired me to get back to the gym. Poolside shame at being hairy, pale and out of shape soon subsided after the fifth cocktail thankfully.

Unscathed masterpieces by modernist architects such as Richard Neutra and Rudolf are common in Palm Springs but if you hanker after the perfect 50's-style retro retreat, the Parker is the spot. Designer Jonathan Adler has embraced kitsch and mid century modernism with gusto. With zebra-print rugs, thrift-store Picassos and tangerine macramé, the look is old school Hollywood glam through and through. My private little botanical garden outside my room, accessed through a sliding plantation style slatted window, had a huge hammock slung up between the palms – nice touch. All the suites are filled with period furniture and classic 1950's kit (a vintage paparazzi shot of the delectable Jackie O peers down at you from above the loo). In addition to the now ubiquitous Molton Brown smellies in the bathroom there has the divine addition of Hermes soap – the perfect present to bag for a deserving friend.

The 13-acre grounds include two saltwater swimming pools, a Patonque area, clay tennis courts and a fire pit for post dinner cigarette bonding. The Palm Springs Yacht Club (clearly this being the desert there are no actual yachts but plenty of jaunty outfits sailing around and strong legged athletic types sporting a white Bally deck shoe or two) has a full-service spa, his-and-her swimming pools, sauna, gym and clothing boutique. If you’re planning an outfit, think preppy pastel coloured Ralph Lauren polo shirt with a cashmere jumper thrown nonchalantly across the shoulders and you will fit right in. The main building has a sceney bar, two restaurants (Mister Parker's and Norma's) and a retro groovy lounge with a circular fireplace. The fashionable Hollywood set (gay producers with their handsome young ‘friends’ were out in force when I stayed) lap it up. So will you.”

Restaurant at St Paul's 17.03.10
“As a pre-teen queerister I was lucky enough to belt out a few numbers with my choir at St Paul’s Cathedral. Who’d have thought that I’d be back here 20 years later with my same-sex partner? Well not me that’s for sure. Conceived by catering company Harbour & Jones, the new Restaurant is down below in the cathedral’s crypt which manages to be not only the sort of cosy spot you could take your Mum when she’s up from the country, but also a fine place for a date with a difference. And boy is the food good. Head Chef Candice Webber takes you on a romp through the British Isles with a fresh and punchy menu. We started with Norfolk chicken livers and bacon while the boyf had soft boiled Banford egg with sprouting broccoli, roast beetroot and lentil salad. Both were superb. For mains we tucked into roast hake with savoy cabbage and cute little brown shrimps in butter while he had Trigger farm lamb rump with minted peas, a side of bobby beans (they trumpet ‘forgotten vegetables’) and roasted Cornish new potatoes which were so good we ordered more. Make sure you leave room for pud – the Regent’s Park honey ice and gingerbread sandwich is sublime. A set three-course lunch costs £20 (2 courses £16). Going to church no longer seems like such a chore.”

La Maruzella 16.03.10
“Follow the costal road north from Gallipoli towards Santa Maria al Bagno for this no-frills restaurant on the sea front where the catch of the day includes sea urchins and calamari. Locals drink wine out of plastic jugs while occasionally getting splashed by the sea. Dame Helen Mirren loves this spot, no doubt because it completely lacks pretension and serves the most fantastic food without costing the earth.”

Faena Hotel & Universe 16.03.10
“Buenos Aires, home to Eve Peron and Maradona, was for much of the 20th century the cultural jewel of South America but things have a habit of going tits up and the Argentine economy has lurched from one crisis to the next for many years.

Spearheading a cultural renaissance is Mr Alan Faena, an insanely handsome former fashion designer who enrolled Philippe Starck to create a hotel that is more than just a chic place to kip but the epicentre for the capital’s A-listers, creatives and decision makers. The hotel is surrounded by rough and ready warehouses in the gentrified docklands area. Once through the hallowed portals though it’s a five star experience all the way.

The swimming pool at the Faena Hotel + Universe (the ubiquitous ‘F’ emblazoned throughout trumpets the man’s grand vision) is a watering hole for beefy Argentine polo players and thoroughbred thin chicks and more than a smattering of boys who like boys. Most hotels with an eye on style boast about having ‘model types’ as guests. At Faena, you actually have real live model hunks splashing about in the pool throwing pink inflatable balls to eachother. On the day I arrived, GQ were doing a photo shoot in the pool with a whole team of male models in skimpy attire, completely at ease with the attention they were receiving from the salivating admirers at the poolside restaurant. Oh to be that confident. But when you have been reared on the world’s finest meat, it’s not surprising you turn out stallion like.

A handsome towering black caped concierge greets you on arrival before you are assigned a lifestyle or experience manager who is at your beck and call for the entirety of your stay. Need advice on the hottest restaurant in town? They’ll book you in.

The décor throughout is mind boggling – red eyed unicorns, chairs shaped like golden swans, velvet curtains, crystal chandeliers and rococo flourishes – it’s film set stuff, and the look-at-me-locals love it. Did I mention that Enrique Iglesias was sleeping in the room next door? If my life had to end there and then I think I would have been happy. Super smart and ultra chic this is the future of hotels.”

Cafe Boheme 15.03.10
“Café Boheme is an Old Compton Street stalwart, slap bang in the throbbing heart of Soho. Many a night of drunken debauchery have started here. The interior is reminiscent of Keith McNally’s Pastis in New York’s Meatpacking district (itself a pastiche of a Parisian brasserie). Froggy classics like Coq au vin and steak frites are done with panache, and there’s good stuff for lunchtime too with yummy old favourites like a chicken club sandwich and hamburgers. There’s an exclusive salon downstairs too which is open to “the right sort of people” and serves as a fantastic space for a party.”

Carrington House 15.03.10
“From the people that brought you Cliff Barns (www.cliffbarns.com) comes a second venture, also in Norfolk. While Cliff Barns was Dallas inspired, designer Shaun Clarkson has channelled the glitz and glam of Dynasty for Carrington House. Could there be a more fantastic place to stay than this? I doubt it. With 9 bedrooms sleeping up to 20 it will make the ultimate place to celebrate a 40th, civil partnership or just a big old party. There’s a fully sound proofed disco in the basement and an exclusive beach hut on a nearby beach, north Norfolk’s stunning coastline making it the UK’s answer to the Hamptons.”

Cotswolds 88 15.03.10
“Everything about this unique creation from one time pop star Marchella De Angelis is bloody marvellous. If I come back as a lady in my next life I want to be named Marchella De Angelis please (her pop moment was in “Confucius Says”). Born in Kuala Lumpur, de Angelis was a founding partner of Shoreditch bar Lounge Lover and that shows in the look she has created at Cotswolds88. ‘Quirky’ doesn’t cover it.

The hotel is perched on a hill in the heart of the chocolate box Cotswold village of Painswick (‘the Queen of the Cotswolds’ apparently). Lest we forget this is the chosen countryside hangout of Kate Moss and Elizabeth Hurley and judging by the abundance of Range Rovers and BMW’s growling about there seems to be rather a lot of cash floating around these parts.

The views from the front lawn are magnificent and while its handsome Palladian-style façade suggests a very traditional country house hotel interior, inside it’s a very different kettle of fish. Walk into the bar, and you'll find yourself transported back to the Sixties by the bold black and white patterned wallpaper, bright yellow leather seats and funky wall-lights. Upstairs, the Leigh Bowery room is decorated in De Angelis’s own limited edition art-wallpaper, part of the Hedonist Collection, a joint collaboration with pop artist Kate Garner (herself a former popstar in eighties band Haysi Fantayzee). It’s like walking into a beautiful dream. And would you believe it there are even armchairs here that used to belong to Kylie?

Murano glass from Marchella’s private collection in our bathroom comes with a warning: “any damage to property is chargeable so please may we ask you to take care of the hotel as if it were your own”. And quite right too. Creating the right vibe is very important to the owner. Marchella is into numerology and feng shui (hence that 88) and the place has a notably positive energy. It certainly appealed to recent guest Joan Collins who, by the way, arrived in a veil (must remember to pack my veil next time). Have we ticked all the gay boxes yet? Kylie? Joan? Did I mention Marchella is a lesbian and can often be spotted purring around the Cotswolds in her girlfriend’s Bentley? It’s all too fabulous for words.

Thankfully children aren’t allowed in the restaurant (a destination in itself complete with two stuffed magpies hovering above the main table) which uses predominantly organic ingredients. We loved the classical music at breakfast that made us want to leap out into the sunshine, embrace the day and go for a rollicking walk across the Cotswold Hills. Love, love, love Cotswolds88.”

Asalem 15.03.10
“Asalem is a magical little waterfront lodge on Ilha Grande, a jungle island paradise a few hours from Rio, with one of the most beautiful sandy beaches in the world (Lopes Mendes). Owned by photographer Andre Cypriano, the ramshackle, laid-back vibe is perfect for slowing down, connecting with your other half and dining on the deck at night by candlelight. The resident dog and cat, which spend most of the day sleeping on their special rock, also make this a truly special place to stay. Try the new eco suite.”

Pizza East 11.03.10
“The Soho House group can do no wrong and with the opening of Pizza East in the iconic Tea Building below Shoreditch House, they have struck gold again. The ten-inch pizzas hit the spot with toppings ranging from traditional tomato, buffalo mozzarella, basil and olive oil to prawn, tomato, garlic, spring onion, marjoram and chilli. The cool industrial interior is filled with concrete pillars, exposed pipes and refectory tables. It’s a stunner. From Thursday to Saturday, a DJ will man the decks. Pizza perfect.”

Pavillon de la Reine 11.03.10
“At the heart of Le Marais, on one of the most beautiful squares in Paris, the Places des Vosges, is the ivy-clad Pavillon de la Reine hotel, dating back to the 17th century, which has just undergone a massive refurb. Parisien designer Didier Benderli, a protegée of Jacques Garcia, has transformed most of the guestrooms and the entire ground floor giving them a sleek, contemporary new look. The refurbishment also sees the opening of Spa de la Reine, a small chic day spa offering exclusive treatments using Bridget Bardot’s favourite spa products, Carita. If you need a posh pied-a-terre in Paris this is your spot. Rooms from £277”

The Goring 11.03.10
“The Goring was the Queen Mum’s favourite hotel and is where visiting royalty stay when they come to town, being a sort of overspill for Buck Palace just around the corner. A-list without being snooty, the hotel celebrates it’s100th anniversary this year, making it the oldest privately owned 5-star in London. Interior designers Russell Sage, Nina Campbell and Tim Gosling have added sparkle to some of the rooms, many of which overlook the lovely garden, with quirky little touches like having fluffy sheep resting at the end of the bed to hasten your slide into sleep. Rooms from £199”

The Olde Bell 11.03.10
“The designer Ilse Crawford (Babington House) has made over a classic British pub in the pretty Berkshire Thameside village of Hurley (no relation to Elizabeth alas). With parts of it dating back to 1153, creaky floorboards, roaring log fires and a hearty menu of country-classics like duck, venison and guinea fowl pot roast all create a cosy vibe, while the home-spun interiors are a lesson in simple, pared down Amish-chic. Woven wool blankets, rocking chairs and hand-made rush matting make you feel safe and warm while elegant chairs by Ercol and pillarbox-red Roberts radios are in keeping with the modern meets well-worn aesthetic. Ask for an Inn suite overlooking the wild-meadow garden with a bath big enough for two (£175) and leave space in your wash bag for the Aesop products.”

York & Albany 11.03.10
“York & Albany captures the elegance of the Regency period as overseen by designer Russell Sage who specialises in working with the antique using traditional British fabrics. Run for Gordon Ramsay by Angela Hartnett it has a lovely deli and a great bar while the restaurant is just the spot for a slap up Sunday roast. Check into one of the magical rooms upstairs and hop across the road for a spring morning stroll in Regent’s Park before breakfast.”

Polpo 11.03.10
“Head chef Tom Oldroyd (ex Bocca di Lupo) excels at dishes like roast belly of pork with radicchio and hazelnuts, and roast pumpkin with prosciutto and ricotta at this new Beak Street ‘bacaro’, or Venetian-style wine bar, serving cichete, an Italian version of tapas. Inside it looks fabulous filled with the warm flickering glow of candlelight against the rough and ready brick and timber walls. Eat at the zinc-topped bar which is perfect for people watching.”

Clarke's 11.03.10
“Sally Clarke has been championing the use of seasonal produce from optimum suppliers for 25 years restaurant and has just been awarded an MBE for her services to hospitality. Sally's famous set no-choice menu (now £35 for three courses) remains a favourite with locals who come for the pure foodie heaven of dishes like fillet of Cornish sea bream roasted with Nicoise vegetable and relish of black olives, parsley and lemon or Gloucester Old Spot pork chop char grilled with sage, honey and red wine glaze and herbed Umbrian lentils. If you aren’t salivating there’s something wrong with you. Go on a Sunday for the excellent value, three-course menu priced at £30, whilst her weekday and Saturday menus incorporate an individually priced selection of daily changing menu items. There’s also a shop and bakery selling lovely pickles, pies, quiches and soups, all great for a picnic in nearby Holland Park.”

Rochelle Canteen 11.03.10
“You buzz to get in and then enter a secret walled garden with a crocus-strewn lawn and an old bike shed where chefs Melanie Arnold and Margot Henderson provide weekday lunches. You’ll get a taste of the simple, honest and delicious stuff they do. You will also get a chance to meet the resident dog Steve and his handsome owner Martin Cohen who cuts a dash and runs the show with slick professionalism.”

Bocca di Lupo 11.03.10
“This is the first solo venture from chef/patron Jacob Kenedy, who was previously head chef at classic Clerkenwell haunt Moro, and penned the famous Moro cookbooks. You can sit at the marble bar where Kenedy, who was described by Moro owners Sam and Samantha Clark as “a formidable presence in the kitchen”, works up his magic in front of you or sit down in the dining room lit by a huge circular chandelier. To match the no-fuss food they’ve gone for bare tables creating a rustic, well-worn look. Standout dishes, which are available in both small and large portions include spaghettini with lobster, mussels and ginger (£9/£18) and bone marrow, barolo and radicchio risotto (£8/£16). We had the tagliata of grilled rib beef with parmesan, rocket and rosemary (£16.50 each) which was sublime. If you are looking for a fun, unassuming sort of place with top-notch grub, not to mention one that is owned and run by a handsome and super-talented couple, then Bocca di Lupo is it.”

Dean Street Townhouse 10.03.10
“Nick Jones, he of Soho House members’ clubs fame, is a pro when it comes to creating a buzzy atmosphere, while Richard Caring (now the main owner of the Soho House Group) has legendary restaurants such as Le Caprice, The Ivy, J Sheekey and Scott’s in his enviable empire. It’s a winning combo. Housed in a whitewashed Georgian building, cosy, comfy and a bit chintzy best describes the feel of the rooms upstairs, with old-fashioned Roberts radios by the bedside, simple light switches rather than computer-controlled panels and a real key on a brass fob. Downstairs in the restaurant, it’s slick Sheekey-style professionalism through and through, with starched tablecloths, silver cutlery and food that is just fabulous. Clubby but not exclusive, everyone is made to feel like they are part of the gang, which is in itself a rare knack. We went for the superb comfort-food (and democratically priced) options of fish and chips and a chicken, bacon and leek pie (£11.50) complete with a little blackbird peaking through the pastry (not a real one obviously). And you’ve got to love a restaurant that makes its signature dish mince and boiled potatoes. Tapping into the current trend for nostalgia, granny-chic has arrived and the Dean Street Townhouse is, in its straightforward olde-worlde-ness, right on the button. “Tiny” rooms start at £95.”